Keep Your Central Air Conditioning Working in Top Condition by Easily Cleaning the Condenser Unit

When people think of central air conditioning they think of a nice cool room and the big box with the fan beside the house. Unfortunately, that typically is as far as it goes. Often overlooked is that the outside condenser unit needs a little TLC from time-to-time to work with optimum efficiency. Take the time to maintain your unit and be rewarded with lower electricity bills and no repair bill!

Safety is most important when dealing with your unit. The condenser and fan are powered by 240 volt connections that can be extremely dangerous if left on while servicing your unit. The unit typically has a breaker box located nearby on the outside wall. Open this box and turn it off. Also, turn off the breaker in your main electrical box that supplies power to the unit.

Once the power is off, you will need to remove the protective grill around the unit. This usually attaches by a few screws or nuts. Once removed, gently vacuum the fins using the bristle brush attachment on a vacuum cleaner. Be sure to go over the entire outer surface. The debris stuck between the fins reduces the efficiency of the unit and should be removed as completely as possible.

Next, undo the screws so that the top grill and fan unit can be removed. Be careful not to damage the wires going to the fan. Scoop out any debris at the bottom of the unit and then vacuum the fin surfaces inside the condenser unit. At this point, you may find debris that is stubborn and will not vacuum out.

To address this issue, cover the condenser and electrical connection with plastic and break out your garden hose. Attach a trigger nozzle and spray the fins from the inside of the unit. Start with a diffuse spray and tighten up to a more concentrated spray gradually. It is possible to bend the fins over so use only as much water pressure as needed to dislodge the debris.

The next step is to clean off the fan blade edges. This will help reduce fan noise and improve efficiency.

Next, oil the fan motor as indicated in your owners manual and reassemble the unit.

Finally, cut back any foliage that might be growing onto or near the unit and then turn the power back on. The plant matter is removed to increase air flow to the unit and keep it working at peak efficiency.

Now drink a cold beverage in your cool home. You deserve it!

Steps For Installing Flexible Air Conditioning Duct

Flexible air conditionings are used for transferring the air from the duct line to HVAC system. Flex duct is made from aluminum and lines of plastic. The inner layer of this product is surrounded by layer of insulation that is used to protect the barrier of vapor. You need to install each and every layer carefully and you need to follow the procedure of installation properly. If you don't follow it then you won't be able to install them properly. If you want to install it then you need to follow following steps to install your product.

Steps for installing flexible air conditioning duct:

1. Find the distance between the place where you will be placing your flexible duct and the point where you will be connecting it. Use tape to measure the distance. The measures that you get double it and add it to the diameter of your measurement. Then you need to bend your degree up to 90 degree. You need to install your flexible properly.

2. Try to increase the length of your flexible air conditioning duct. You need to make the surface of your flexible smooth. Try to place the stretch tape near the flexible tape. The end of the tape has to be an aligned and try to make the inner of the liner flexible.

3. Try to open the big scissors and try to push the lower blade of the scissor in the flexible duct and try to cut it as per the length of the flexible duct. Ensure that the all the layers of the flexible duct are equal.

4. Try to cut the flexible duct with the help of scissors. Once you have cut the scissors use different types of wires for supporting the inner layer of your flexible air conditioning duct.

5. Try to roll the barriers of the vapor and try to insulate the inner line of the flexible duct from the back of your product. Try to expose 3 inches of the inner line from both the sides of the device.

6. Slide all the liner on both the ends that are found between HVAC system and the register.

7. Place the duct fastening on the each end of the flexible duct. Ensure that the straps are connected with each other and you need to connect with the different point of HVAC system.

8. Tight the plastic strap with the duct fastening. To install it you need to use different tools and the wrap tape to make the plastic duct straps.

9. Once you have installed the flexible then you need to unroll the insulation and you will have to unroll the vapor barrier. Try to cover the inner liner that you have attached with the flexible air conditioning duct. Once you have completed the installation then you can start using the product.

How Do Central Air Conditioners Work?

Want to relax in the serene and cool indoors of your home during the hot summer? What could be a better way than to install central air conditioning systems in your home to maximize the cooling effect.

Central air conditioners are perfect for cooling the entire house rather than a single room.

These are preferred by most people who can afford it for cooling their residential spaces. The basic way central air conditioners work is through throwing hot air out of the house and circulating the cool air through the rooms.

Most people find central air conditioning systems more convenient and comfortable compared to portable or window ACs as they keep the temperature throughout the house the same. Central air conditioning is automatic as it turns ON and OFF when required keeping electricity bills under control.

Besides the regular functions that most central ACs perform, adding accessories like thermostats and electronic air cleaners can greatly facilitate the way these units perform.
Central AC systems are comprised of two basic parts, the hot and the cold side.

The hot side is the part that is out of the home while the cold side is one that is inside. The outside/condensing coil mainly absorbs hot air from inside the house and throws it out. This coil comprises of an electrical disconnect switch, a compressor fan, motor and a condenser coil.

To support the function of the condensing coil, the indoor section and gas handler works to circulate the cool air within the home. This system is comprised of a blower, a condensate tray/drain and pump and an evaporation coil. The indoor as well as outdoor units, work together using Freon as a cooling agent for keeping your house cool on hot summer days.

A detail duct work accompanies split units for better performance. However it is important to take special care for maintaining the central air conditioning systems to keep them working perfectly. Their up keep is not very difficult and simply requires keeping all parts dirt free, oiling the motor and replacing the filter.
In short central air conditioning systems can prove to be a highly affordable way of making your home a haven after a long and hot day of work.

EPA Standards For HVAC Equipment

The majority of the US is in a temperate climate. This means that although the temperature does not reach extremes found in tropical and arctic latitudes, there are major seasonal weather variations. Most Americans choose to use a central air or HVAC system to control interior temperature. For large HVAC jobs like schools and warehouses, the cost of ventilation means that careful planning must go into designing the systems. Average temperatures, energy savings, humidity, local and national codes and indoor air quality are just some of the factors that most be considered on public works projects.

The first step for a large building is using central air handling units, instead of individual ventilators in each room. In some instances like a isolated field house, a unit air conditioner may be a better choice because they take up less floor or roof space. Individual units are harder to maintain in a group and cause other ventilation and moisture problems when combined with a central unit. Central heating is especially popular with teachers because it is quieter and therefore they do not mind using it in the classroom. Denver air conditioning companies installed central heat in Denver high schools over 30 years ago and the system has been a success. Central heat is less prone to drafts because of multiple sources of air. A professional HVAC company can maintain a central unit and tweak the global settings to control humidity.

The consolidated design of central units allow them to be serviced without disturbing the work in a building- and they generally take up less interior space. To meet EPA certification for government buildings, HVAC systems must meet certain requirements. Coils must have sloped non corrosive drain pans to prevent water from stagnating or rusting the system interior. They should be in a wall cabinet with easy access that also reduces sound. This means double wall replacement doors with tight seals. EPA filters are always at least two inches thick. A well designed filter bank will take these high performance filters over a large area for max lifetime. Air filter monitors notify Denver HVAC techs when to replace the filters, as well as any major problems in the system.

To maintain indoor air quality, the easiest solution is to increase air flow from outside. This must be balanced with cost, because to increase air flow, your HVAC system must run longer. The minimum government standard devised by http://www.ashrae.org is 15 cubic feet/min of airflow per person in schools. Many systems just meet this standard for minimum cost. Energy recovery equipment can minimize the cost from increased ventilation airflow. Energy recovery is popular in Air conditioning in Denver and the east because the technology in this option saves money on large scale HVAC systems.

NewAir AC-1600H Portable AC - Most Powerful Portable AC On The Market!

If you live in an apartment or condominium, you may have to rely on your building's central cooling system to stay comfortable during the scorching summer heat. However, if this proves to be inefficient or if you're concerned with rising energy costs, you may have to resort to less efficient cooling methods such as ceiling or portable electric fans in order to find respite from rising temperatures. Thankfully, portable air conditioners are the perfect portable cooling solution for areas that cannot accommodate traditional window units such as apartments or even computer server rooms.

Portable air conditioners work similar to traditional central or window air conditioners in that they utilize the refrigeration cycle and a coolant to cool a room or area. However, they are portable, mobile, and do not require any sort of permanent installation. Instead, they consist of a box-like frame that holds both the cold and hot side of the AC along with an exhaust hose to expel heat. Water is removed from the air, and this condensate is either collected in a tray or bucket located within the unit or in more advanced models, even self-evaporated.

When purchasing a portable air conditioner, one of the most common terms you'll see advertised is a unit's BTU rating. As an acronym for British Thermal Units, BTUs refer to a portable air conditioner's cooling capacity, and this can range anywhere from 5,000 BTUs to 18,000 BTUs. The higher the BTU value, the stronger the air conditioner. To get a ballpark estimation of the amount of BTUs you'll need for your room, simply find the square footage of the room and multiply this number by 35.

However, keep in mind that while BTUs are one of the most important factors to look for in an air conditioner, be aware that many portable AC manufacturers often overstate the BTU rating of their units as a way to market their products. Thankfully, in our quest to find the best portable air conditioners on the market, we found the NewAir AC-1600H to be one of the most powerful portable ACs available.

At a Glance:

When we first removed the NewAir AC-1600H from its package, we were quite impressed with its design. Its sleek silver finished complemented our 400 square foot living room's décor, and the unit itself weighed approximately 75 pounds. Rolling casters made maneuverability a snap, while the large, easy-to-read LCD display panel with remote control made operation simple and hassle-free.

Cooling Abilities:

As mentioned above, BTU ratings are one of the most important factors to consider when purchasing a portable AC. The NewAir AC-1600H provided 16,000 BTUs of cooling power - more than many of the units we tested. NewAir recommends this unit to be used in areas 400 square or smaller, but we found that it may have even had the capacity to cool areas slightly larger in ideal conditions (64° to 90° F).

Moisture Removal:

A portable air conditioner's use of the refrigeration cycle also allows it to remove moisture from the air, making it especially great for humid areas. In addition to cooling, the NewAir AC-1600H portable air conditioner also had the ability to remove up to 80 pints of water per day. Moreover, because it utilized advanced auto-evaporative technology, this eliminated the need to empty any water tanks (assuming your climate isn't too humid).

Multi-Functionality:

The NewAir AC-1600H also came with a built-in space heater that offered 16,000 BTUs of heating power. Furthermore, the inclusion of a 3M Filtrete filter removed dust, pollen, bacteria, and animal dander from the air, while the activated carbon filter was able to adsorb odors such as smoke.
Overall, we found the NewAir AC-1600H to be an excellent portable AC that included many advanced features. Best of all, it offers more BTUs than most portable ACs on the market, and its sleek, European design is sure to complement any type of décor in your home.

The Benefits of Central Air Conditioning

Obviously, because you will be running only one air-conditioning motor when you have central air-conditioning, you will be able to post a lot of savings from off your power bill. Central air conditioning consists of one main unit that generates the cool air and a system of ducts that go around the house and have vents for all the rooms that you want to cool. Although it takes more power to run a central air conditioning motor, the power consumption will be much less than if you were to install a separate air conditioning unit for each room. And when you consider the fact that a lot of power is used to start the motor of a unit, you can imagine how multiplying that initial power surge by a number equal to the number of units you have in the house can up your power bill. The more rooms there are, the more economical will it be to have central air conditioning installed.

Saving on your space and maintaining your health

Room air conditioners will always take up a lot of space. If you have standing type units, they need to positioned alongside a wall in the room. The proportions of the unit will depend on how much cooling power it is capable of. The particular brand may also influence the size of the air conditioner. Whatever the case, a standing air conditioner not only occupies space but is also a repository for dust. Insects may also hide themselves under the units. In addition to the external dirt, the insides of the air-conditioner are bound to become filthy and will need to be cleaned once in a while. All that activity exposes the room to the allergenic and pathogenic particles which may fly around when the unit is cleaned. In short, standing air-conditioners are a health hazard of sorts.

The same is true to a lesser extent for window-type air-conditioners. While these models do not stand on the floor of the room, a portion of the wall will need to be cut open to accommodate the window-type unit. Because there are bound to be gaps where the unit meets the edge of the wall, these models may allow dust and allergenic substances from the outside air to enter the room.

Central air conditioning units are isolated in their own room

Your central air conditioning unit should usually have a room of its own. All the ducts going to other areas in the house are connected to that room. Each time you have the unit cleaned, maintained or repaired, the activity, the dust and the grime will be isolated to that one area where the unit is located. The rest of the house is safe from the pollution.

Central Air Conditioning - Is it the Fitting Choice For Your Home?

Due to the worsening humidity experienced today, many home owners are enforced to install central air conditioning in their abode. This system is one of the best options for maintaining proper and comfortable indoor climate. On the other hand, it does not necessarily mean that it would be appropriate for your home as well. Learn the properties of a central air conditioner so you can decide if would answer to your needs.

Central versus Single AC unit

First of all, a central air conditioner is just like the single unit installed in individual rooms - it produces conditioned air for the whole house. The difference between them mainly relies on the components of the former. The central air conditioner has a condenser unit that is typically located outside, and ducts connected to each room in the house.

In terms of pricing, a room air conditioner would be just a few hundred dollars while the central system would be in thousands, from $4,000 to $10,000 depending again on the specs of your existing furnace and duct work.

Deciding for the Best Option

Despite the price of central air conditioning, it would turn out to be a practical option if your house has several rooms. Combining the price of single units might actually total to the sum of setting up the central system. But you have to be very cautious about further costs, which are for the equipment and labor, involved in purchasing and installing it. These could be variable too according to your location.

It would also necessitate for installing a furnace or boiler if you do not have an existing one. You then have to pay for an expert HVAC contractor as this is a very delicate matter. Make sure to get quotes for different central system efficiencies from at least three companies.

With regards to the efficiency factor, it differs according to high, middle or low. The most common system for measuring the efficiency is through the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio or SEER. The typical SEER recommended for air conditioners is of at least 13, and at most 22. This measurement factors in the startup and shutdown time which helps in accurately determining the actual energy costs of the system.

Another component you must oversee is the size of the unit. This goes with knowing the load capacity of the central air conditioning system. It is then ultimately crucial to perform a load calculation as a too large system would reduce efficiency of the system, while a too small system would not meet your conditioned air demands especially during the hotter, more humid days.

What you can do is to either do the calculation by accessing free sources such as an online calculator or air conditioning sizing worksheet, or ask an HVAC contractor to do the work. Note upon doing this task yourself, you must follow the industry standard load calculation called the Manual J calculation. This considers the size of your home, amount and status of insulation installed, exposure of the house to the sun, square footage, among other factors.

Pay attention to each of these details so you can avail the best central air conditioning system for your home.

Learn How Upselling Techniques Can Double Your Business Profits Literally Overnight

Upselling? You would often hear about this in entrepreneurship seminars or from your business coaches or textbooks.

But by this I don't mean 'bait and switch tactics' - telling them a low price and then hitting them with a much higher price when you get there. By upselling I mean selling your clients more stuff.

Don't think of upselling as a way to squeeze more money out of your clients. Only add services that provide value and improve the quality of your clients system.

For example, your client needs a new furnace. You could just stop there but think of all the other improvements you could make. Maybe the first upsell would be a more efficient furnace. Next, a programmable thermostat to provide your client even more energy savings. Or maybe an electronic air cleaner or a humidifier.

All of these products add comfort and improve the air quality. Maybe new ductwork is in order to improve air flow to certain rooms. While we're at it, it could be the best time to also replace the central air conditioner. How about a ground source heat pump? The list just goes on and on.

Another upsell would be an annual service contract or perhaps an annual duct cleaning if you offer that service. Never use scare tactics to upsell such as without a CO detector you could die from carbon monoxide poisoning. But be sure the client knows all the advantages of the upsell products.

Overwhelm them with the benefits of the additional services and products you offer. Give them tons and tons of proof. It is usually better to have too much than not enough. Educate your clients and they'll usually make the best decision. Following this section is an example of a letter that can be used to upsell various products. This particular letter is for electronic air cleaners but the style could be adopted for other products too.

Preferably, mail a letter like the one that follows with something you are already mailing to your Clients. This way your postage is minimal to none and all the sales are profits. This letter will sell electronic air cleaners. Plus, after receiving it many people will call for other services you offer. It may generate as much other business as it does electronic air cleaners. It is easy to do a similar type letter for programmable thermostats or similar products.

The sample letter for an upsell that I talked about earlier, would be in Part 2 of this article series.

Controlling Humidity With Air Conditioning

Have you ever thought why do you feel comfortable when you walk into an air conditioned room? Your probable answer will be because it is cold there. There is some truth there but that is not all. Take a good example. You go to a humid room where the temperature is 25°C and you will feel very uncomfortable but you walk into a room at the same temperature where you have a window air conditioner, you will feel comfortable. What is the difference?

The difference is the humidity. Our body, due to its metabolic activity produces heat. This heat has to be taken away from the body. If not the body temperature will rise and you will end up with fever. To have the body temperature controlled at 98.4°F, the body has a mechanism. This is done by sweating. When one gram of water evaporates it carries 540 calories of heat away. When we sweat and the sweat evaporates, our bodies get cooled. When you are in a low humidity air conditioned room the sweat evaporates quicker. But in a humid room the evaporation of sweat is slower. This is the reason why you feel more comfortable when you are in an air conditioned room.

Now how the Window air conditioner does make the room less humid? This is because when you are in an air conditioned room the evaporated sweat or any other water in the room for that matter will go to the air conditioner as water vapor. When this water vapor touches the cooling surface of the air conditioner some of the vapor molecules will become liquid i.e. water and will adhere to the cooling surface of the air conditioner. This water is sent out through a pipe line. This way the moisture in your body will end up outside the room making you feel cold and comfortable.

How Much Is an Average Attic Insulation Cost, and Why Should You Insulate Your Attic?

Warm air has a tendency to naturally shift to cooler areas. Heat is exchanged between the inside air and the outside air in an attic. Warm air is leaked outside the house into the cooler climate when there is no proper insulation, while the hot air from outside come into the house on warm days. Your central air conditioning system can experience remarkable stress from this exchange and can consume a lot of energy. An ideal solution would be to insulate the attic. The attic is often farthest away from the central air conditioning system therefore it is hotter than the other parts of the house. This can control the intense temperature in the attic and create a comfortable place. Attic insulation costs are as follows (cost is likely to vary based on several factors):

The most commonly used and cheapest insulating material for homes is loose fill fibreglass. Mineral wool and cellulose are other insulating materials. Cellulose supply acoustical insulation and high thermal and is the main eco-friendly alternative. Batts/roll insulation comes in resources such as rock wool, cellulose and fibreglass and is slightly more expensive than loose fill. It is advised that you use the services of a professional to do the task if you choose loose fill insulation. For this type of insulation, the cost would be about USD 300 - USD 600 for an average- sized attic.

Another factor that determines the cost for attic insulation is the R-value or the resistance of the material. The higher the R value of the material, the more effective it will be at insulating. Naturally, the cost of insulation increases when the R value increases. Attics and other high rise ceilings like those of cathedrals demand a greater level R value than walls.

If you employ a contractor to insulate an open attic to contemporary standards, you are liable to spend USD 0.50 - USD 2.25 per sq ft. On the other hand, the R value desired and the local weather are expected to influence this cost. Hence, you will likely have to pay between USD 400 - USD 1800 for a 800 sq ft space. Your single option is roll out batting if you choose the attic insulation. For this choice, you will possibly spend approximately USD 100 - USD 500. Again, the size of attic, cost of material, and R value and other factors are sure to have an effect on the actual cost. Professional service is required for blow insulation which places the loose fill substance into the roof, wall or ceiling of the attic. Attic insulation in this case would cost about USD 2 - USD 3.50 per square foot. Hence, the approximate calculation for insulation using this method is about USD 2000 - USD 3500 for insulating a 1000 sq ft area.

Getting More Information About Central Air Conditioning

There were days when heating and cooling system was not available to many people and it was limited to the single room or two. There are many companies manufacturing the air conditioners so there is a tough competition between these manufacturers. All air conditioner manufacturers are always keen to introduce the best model with latest technology so they can capture the market. These heating and cooling system companies also make changes in the prices that also sometimes benefit the consumers. These companies have made the great achievements and every single achievement has contributed in heating and cooling system performance and efficiency, but still there are few things we usually think about like servicing the machine.

We all want our home to remain cool under the ruthless sun rays, but it will be more expensive to install air conditioners in all the rooms, this would consume more electricity that makes it more expensive. When it comes to the maintenance you pay separately for each unit. Considering these issues many companies came to the conclusion of central air conditioning. Now central air conditioning is also categorized in different ways and also known with different names. This is most convenient solution of heating and cooling as it allows you to cool down the whole building.

If you are living in a big house with multiple bedrooms and you want all of them to be air conditioned then you can go for the central air conditioning. You may spend initially a bit high on all the installation and machinery but these units require less maintenance and they save electricity up to 30 percent. This heating and cooling system is also less noisy as you will be getting cooled air through ducts installed in home ceiling. The nosier part will be installed either on the roof or somewhere outside the premises. There are many units which work for the winter, these units keeps the whole building warm and cozy.

When you look for the central air conditioners in the market there are many brands with different models equipped with different technologies. It is recommended to check the seasonal energy efficiency ratio. There are different ratings however, the rating about 22 is considerably good. You can use these ratings as reference while buying a central air conditioner unit. The other important thing is the compressor used in the product compressors are the most expensive part in heating and cooling system and this also plays the main role. In 1922 Willis introduced the central compressor in the heating and cooling system. The first machine which was invented in 1902 was huge in the size and was using ammonia as coolant.

In 1922 he replaced the ammonia with the benign and added the compressor into the air-conditioning machine, this reduced the size and made machine more efficient. He achieved great success in 1925 when he introduced the air-conditioning to the movie theaters in New York City. This is the reason that compressors are the most expensive and most important part in air conditioning. Central Air Conditioners are also loaded with climate control, great temperature control and likewise technologies.

Facts About a Central Heating Boiler

A central heating boiler is so named because they are placed in a central location inside the structure. Being centrally located in the structure allows these items to provide adequate heat sources to all of the structure with fewer temperature variations. The central heating boiler is more efficient at maintaining a constant room temperature than devices designed to heat just one room of the dwelling.

Space heaters are meant to heat just one room in a house. These devices are generally powered by gas, propane, or electricity. You can also have devices that are powered by wood that heat only one room at a time. Most of the people that have these items in their home do so because the room devices are cheaper to purchase and install initially.

The initial cost of the central heating boiler is far greater than buying a device that can heat or cool just one room of your home. You will also need to hire a professional service technician to install this larger device. You may have the skills required to do the installation for yourself, but having it done by a certified installation technician will keep you from voiding your warranty by self installation.

A central heating boiler is connected through pipes or duct work throughout the house. In each of the rooms there is a vent that can be opened to allow the heated air to enter the room. In case of rooms that do not necessarily need to be heated the vent in the room can be closed to prevent the heated air from entering. The closing of the vents in different rooms can save you money, because the central heating boiler does not have to run as often.

A central heating boiler can be powered with mains gas, electricity, or propane fuel. There is also the possibility of installing a ground source heat pump to operate these systems. There are very few of these systems that can be powered by wood or coal in use any longer.

The operational cost of these units will be dependent on the way you use them and the type of fuel that powers them. Electrical devices are generally more expensive to operate than gas powered devices are. You also change the amount it costs to run the units when you change the temperature settings on the thermostats in the house. It is recommended that you find a comfortable setting of around 73 degrees and do not turn the control up and down. When you get too cold you should put on a sweater. When you feel overly warm you should turn on a fan rather than adjusting the control knob on the thermostat.

Other ways to prevent these units from using more energy that necessary is to make certain the structure is insulated well. Close off drafts by checking for leaks around windows and doors. If you can replace older windows that have single panes with newer versions that are double paned you will reduce your cost of operating your air conditioning. You could make these window conversions slowly so that they are more affordable.

Do You Need a New Air Conditioning System?

Sitting out on the front porch sipping ice tea with lemon can be a little slice of heaven. But not everyone feels as heavenly about it if night after night, that's where they are instead of in their cool, air conditioned home. Summer is the time that air conditioners break down regularly. No one wants to make that call to the A/C repair person when they are dripping with sweat. Here are a few tips to help you find a solution to your air conditioner problem.

Many times, A/C companies will try to get consumers to buy a brand new central air conditioning unit. Not only is this unnecessary, it is also very expensive and time consuming. So, how do you know if you really do need a new air conditioner or if repairing the one you currently have is the answer to your heat-soaked prayers.

Check out the filters. When your filters are dirty, things like dust and dirt get trapped in the filters and prevent air from flowing freely. An easy fix is to check your filters, use the actual vacuum hose on them, or replace them on a regular basis. It's one of the main air conditioner parts that is easy to access. That way, you'll keep your A/C running lean and clean.

Find out if you have any leaks. This is a very difficult situation. Repairing leaks is a major expense and can cost you lots of dollars in energy bills. However, you do not need a new system if the problem is a leak in the current system. Make sure you explore every avenue of finding and repairing the leak before you look into getting an entirely new system.

Have a qualified technician come out and do a check up. Many times, we don't even know what kind of parts are in our system when we first purchase a new home. Having a technician come out and do a tune-up; much like you would on a car, can help find any damaged or poorly made parts. Then, you're in the position of merely replacing a part; not an entire unit or central air system. You may also want to shop around a little bit checking out reconditioned parts or getting a second opinion from a qualified A/C repair technician. Don't jump at the very first offer!

As with any type of mechanical repair work, don't attempt to do it yourself, unless you really, really know what you are doing. Simply getting into an air conditioning system and banging around or tightening or tweaking things may cause more harm than you know. Always check with a qualified professional technician before you start trying the DIY approach. After all, the DIY approach may end up costing you more time, effort, energy, and stress.

Cleaning an Air Conditioner

Air conditioners come in many different types and sizes but all have similar components and need to be frequently cleaned to obtain maximum efficiency and prolong the life of the unit. Because units differ in size and style on site common sense and some mechanical ability are required.

The most important part of maintaining any air conditioner is cleaning the coils. All air conditioners will have two coils, one called the condenser coil and the other called the evaporator coil. In window type air conditioners the coils are very close with the evaporator coil being the one inside the conditioned space behind the filter.

The condenser coil is the one that is outside and rejects the heat. The evaporator coil is usually pretty accessible with out removing much of the a/c outer cabinet. The condenser coil however is more difficult to get at the side that most of the dirt will build up on. You must try to remove the a/c units' outer shell by removing any screws that are holding it. Once you have removed the outer cabinet you should be able to see the back side of the condenser coil that may be so dirty it may not even look like a coil surface.

In most homes central air type air conditioners you condenser coil is located in the part of your air conditioner that sits outside. You may have to remove some louvered panels to get at the coil fins. The evaporator coil is located in an air handler of some sort in side the home. This may be in the duct work above your furnace or in an air handler in an attic. The evaporator coil can some times be a challenge to get at. Always turn off power to the unit and ware safety glasses as well as gloves.

Now that you have access to both coils it's time to clean them. Start by brushing off as much of the heavy dirt with a small compact stiff bristle brush so that the coil cleaner can be injected into the coil. Now wet the coils with a sprayer or garden hose being careful not to use too much water pressure as to bend over or damage the fins. If you find that some fins are damaged you can repair them with a coil fin comb. Now spay on a genres amount of coil cleaner injecting it into the coils so that it can start to loosen the dirt. Coil cleaner in an aerosol can is great for injecting the cleaner deep into the coil. In some cases a liquid concentrate or powder cleaner that can be mixed in a sprayer works well also because the wand of the sprayer fits into tight areas. These coil cleaners, brushes, coil coating treatment and condensate pan treatment can be purchased online at HVAC Maintenance & Supplies . After letting the cleaner soak for 5-7 minutes it best to then rinse or flush the coil with water. If you use a no rinse type cleaner and plan to run the a/c after you do not need to rinse the evaporator coil. I always recommend flushing the condenser coil the help remove dirt. Repeat this process until you see clean water coming out of the coil while flushing.

After you coils are clean you can apply a coil coating treatment that will keep dirt from sticking in the future in turn reducing the frequency of coil cleaning. First Strike is a great product that turns you coils into self cleaning coils. Be sure to then clear the condensate drain that may be a drain hose coming from the evaporator or a weep hole in the window type a/c unit pan. I also recommend placing some type of condensate pan treatment tablets or pads in the evaporator pan to prevent future drain blockage. Now reassemble your air conditioner and your all set.

All products listed in this article as well as a do it your self Air Conditioner Maintenance Kit can be purchase online at www.mainsupplies.com.

How Your Central Air Conditioner Works

Most people have no idea the role that air conditioners play in their lives. We take them totally for granted but the fact is that our lives would be absolutely miserable if we did not have them. Having said that, its funny how many people have no earthly idea how the system that keeps them comfortable throughout half the year. The majority of the public has little clue about what their central air conditioning system comprises of or how, in fact, it produces the cold air that circulates throughout their house.

This article will attempt to debunk the mystery as simple as possible.

First, you need to understand that your air conditioner is comprised of two main parts. They are the condenser and the evaporator. Lines and air ducts connect the two.

Lets start with the condenser. This is the square box on the outside of your house. It is comprised of your refrigerant, a compressor and a fan blower. The refrigerant is compressed from a gas state to a liquid state. When this happens it gets pretty hot. The fan above it acts as a radiator and cools it.

The refrigerant, in its liquid state, then travels through special copper coils to the inside of your house, into the evaporator. Inside the evaporator it totally cools the hot air that has been pulled from the house. Once the air is cooled there is a fan blower that circulates it through the air ducts and back into all the rooms of a home or a building.

Hot air is lighter than cold air so it rises. Most of the hot air is high off the ground so top vents in your home suck the hot air out of a room and cold air is blown through the bottom vents. The hot air that is sucked through vents is brought back into the evaporator to be re-cooled and re-circulated throughout your home. Most of the air in your home is reused again and again and is chilled, or cooled, again and again. That is the reason why its nice to have a humidifier of some sort because the air can become dry after some time as all the moisture is taken out of it.

When people have problems with their A/C system is usually boils down to two issues. The coils that take the refrigerant from the condenser to the evaporator are dirty, and therefore clogged, or the system is low on refrigerant and the air is not being chilled adequately. Each one of those problems can be fixed rather easily though it is always recommended that you have a certified heating and cooling service repairman add any refrigerant to your system, should it require it, as the substance is highly toxic.

A Home Inspector Checks the Electrical System

When a home inspector looks over the home you're either buying or selling, one of the crucial items he'll examine is the electrical system. In other words, how's the wiring? Are there any fire hazards the must be fixed immediately?

One of the first things to understand about a home is its requirements for amps and volts. The more amps you have in a home, the more electrical devices you can have in use at any given time. The typical standard is 100 amps, though some say 200 amps are necessary for all the electrical gadgets we use these days. Large homes, and homes with central air-conditioning or electric heat will need more power. Think of a tunnel. A two lane tunnel lets through twice as many cars as a one lane tunnel.

Volts determines the types of electrically powered devices that can be used. For example, lights, small power tools, small kitchen appliances, bathroom appliances, small room air-conditioners, etc. utilize 110 volt power. In the case of electrically heated homes, electric ranges, large room air-conditioners, central air-conditioning, large power tools, clothes dryers, etc. 220 volts are required. In our illustration of tunnels, higher voltage capacity is like a tunnel that can accommodate trucks, not just cars.

Power must be distributed evenly throughout the home. If a home has more electrical circuits, there's less of a chance of blowing a fuse or tripping a circuit breaker. A home with 14 circuits can accommodate more than one with seven. Thinking of tunnels again, the more tunnels there are available to accommodate traffic, the less chance that a traffic jam will occur.

Your home inspector will look outside for what he can find out about the electrical service. Are there any frayed or damaged wires? Frayed insulation could mean there is water damage in the main panel in the house. Some rust on the pipe or meter pan isn't usually a big problem because it occurs with weathering.

Your inspector will walk around the outside of the house and make sure there are no exposed open wires. Any outside receptacles should be GFI protected.

There are several things your inspector will take note of inside the home. Are there 3 prong grounded receptacles? Are there GFI receptacles in the kitchen and bathrooms? Your inspector can test to see that they work. Are there any burn marks on receptacle or switch plates? Is there rust on the main service panel?

Are all device plates installed straight and tight to the walls? Are light bulbs installed in all fixtures and all in working condition? Do telephone and cable jacks work? Does the doorbell work?

What's the condition of visible wires? He'll take a look in the attic and basement for this as well. Are there any uncovered junction boxes?

Your inspector will check for aluminum wiring by removing a few receptacle and switch plates. Aluminum wiring poses serious dangers. It can be the cause of flickering lights and intermittent operation of devices or appliances. If this is happening, a licensed electrician must be called. Shut the power off to affected areas if at all possible. Be sure the home has working smoke detectors. Replacing aluminum wiring can be a large expense, but replacing the home is an even bigger one.

Your inspector should check the water main and see that the service ground is in good condition.

He'll try all switches and receptacles to see that they work. He may turn on as many lights in the house as he can. He may then turn on an air conditioner or large appliance like an electric stove to see if the lights dim or brighten. If so there may be a loose neutral or ground connection.

It's important to check the main breaker. Are electrical panels labeled properly? Does the home have adequate amps and voltage? If the service needs to be replaced or upgraded it makes little sense to put anything less than 200 Amps in.

Here's a simple way to check for loose connections. Turn on all the lights and walk around the home, banging a fist on and near switches and outlets with two sharp raps. If there's a loose connection, this should reveal it. Finding a problem like this could prevent an electrical fire. Loose connections equal heat in an electrical circuit.

When checking light bulbs and fixtures, your inspector may note whether bulbs are a higher wattage than what is specified for the fixture. If they are chances that the wiring in the fixture is damaged from the excessive heat, it should be replaced.

If the home is occupied or has recently been lived in, it's crucial that extension cords are not under carpets or rugs. It's important to replace frayed or worn extension cords and replace broken or damaged plugs on appliances.

Your inspector will look for overall quality of the electrical work in the home. If a licensed electrician installed the work, things will be done neatly and properly. Work done by a homeowner or handyman generally will be evident by how the work looks.

Remember, your home inspector will report to you on the condition of the home. Knowing the status of the electrical system is important as you decide whether to buy or sell the home in question.

Unsafe Electrical Panels Can Pose Fire and Shock Hazards

If your home has an older electrical panel with fuses, safety can be an issue. Even some brands of newer electrical panels equipped with circuit breakers can pose safety hazards and should be upgraded.

Another reason to upgrade your electric panel is if it's too small. To say it's "too small" means it doesn't supply enough power -- a clue is that fuses are frequently blowing or breakers are frequently flipping off. Or possibly, a contractor has told you that your home or business needs more power for a new air conditioner or other installation and needs an electrical panel upgrade.

What is an electrical panel?

The power from the electric utility company flows through large wires to your home and into the panel, a large metal box with fuses or circuit breakers inside. If you think of your home electrical system as having branches and twigs like a tree, your electrical panel is the tree trunk. From the panel, the current flows into major electrical branches which dwindle into smaller and smaller branches and twigs, serving every part of your home.

An electrical panel may also be called a:

• Breaker box


• Circuit breaker panel or box


• Power breaker


• Fuse box or board


• Electrical box or service


• Panel board


• Residential service


• Service panel


• Main panel


• Distribution board

These all mean the same thing.

How do fuses and breakers work?

If too much power were to flow into the wires in your home, they could melt and start a fire. If you were to accidentally touch a damaged overloaded wire, you could receive an electrical shock.

To prevent more electrical flow than the wires are designed for, your electrical service panel is supposed to detect the problem and stop the flow immediately. In older electrical panels, a fuse blows. In newer ones, a breaker flips off. Both responses break the circuit and cut the power to wires. Properly functioning breakers (or fuses) are vital for your family's safety and the safety of your home.

How do I know if my electrical panel is too small and should be upgraded?

When you add central air or a large new refrigerator, your home isn't necessarily set up for the additional power required. If breakers are flipping or fuses are blowing often, it likely means that your electrical system needs enlargement, including possibly a panel upgrade. Here are common situations which call for enlarging an electrical system:

• A move to a house with an old undersized service


• Adding central air conditioning


• Adding an oven, hot tub, spa, power equipment in your garage, etc.


• A room addition


• A kitchen renovation

Fuse Boxes

Older electrical panels have fuses rather than circuit breakers. In the days when fuse boxes were installed, homes needed considerably less power. Many fuse boxes were designed to handle 30-60 amps of power whereas the appliances and electronics in today's homes often require 100-200 amps of power or more.

Fuse boxes may become overloaded, blowing fuses and shutting down your appliances. This can be an inconvenience, and there's a temptation to buy larger fuses so that they won't blow so often. But, oversized fuses can allow overloading and overheating of wires. Occasionally, someone will have even put a penny in the opening to replace a blown fuse. This can really create a fire hazard as a penny can't break the circuit and stop overloading of wires.

A little known danger of fuse boxes is that homeowners can accidentally stick their fingers into the fuse opening, possibly while changing the fuse, and be electrocuted. The safe solution is to upgrade with circuit breakers.

Circuit Breaker Brands

Specific brands, especially those installed in earlier decades, have been found to deteriorate with age and pose a safety hazard. You can go to the free website, Inspectopedia.com, and search on your brand to check its safety.

If you have any questions about whether the size of your electrical panel is sufficient or if the panel is safe, ask a qualified electrician to check it out.

Choosing Central Heating Radiators to Warm Your Home

Radiators are objects used to transfer heat from one medium to another. Mostly they are used in vehicles and buildings to bring either heat or cold to the place. Home heating radiators are warmers, used to keep homes warm especially during very cold weather. If you have a radiator you are always assured of continuous warmth in your home. Different companies have come up with different types and sizes of radiators. It is important to know the type and size of radiator you need for your home. If you are not very sure, get an expert point of view before installing what may not really meet your requirements.

How to match your radiator with your home setting

For most people, d矇cor and beauty matter a lot when we go out to buy anything for our homes. If you are one of those who value your interior decoration, you may find it a bit hard to buy the right radiator for your home. That is because many of them are not good-looking and for that reason, getting one that suits your home d矇cor may be hard. However, that should not stop you from purchasing one because it is possible to have both; beauty and warmth. It is possible to buy a home heating radiator and find that the colors are not in harmony with your home. If you find yourself in that situation, the solution will not be to avoid it; rather you can buy it and get covers for it. Interestingly, you can actually get decorative and pretty covers for your radiators. Some are purely decorative, while others can help your radiator to disperse heat even better. Since you need the two; warmth and flair, then buying these covers will go a long way in making you realize this dream.

Home radiators maintenance

Let us say you have bought your warmer and you have decorated it. How do you maintain it to avoid disappointments later? Home heating radiators are quite easy to maintain and all you need to do is to be very cautious especially if it has been out of use for a certain period. What happens is that once it is not in use, air gets in the system and prevents it from operating as expected. In fact you may think that it is spoilt only to realize that it was full of air. What you need to do is ensure that you remove all the air in the heating system by switching on the heat and giving it time to warm up. Most companies will provide you with a manual to help you remove the air. You will need to use it to make sure that your home heating radiator is functioning well.

Choosing the best radiator for your home

One of the things you will need to put into consideration before you buy a radiator is the type of heating system in your home. With that kind of information you will be able to know how much heat is required for your house. This is information that you can get easily from a heating engineer who is well qualified.

Protection From Limescale - How to Remove Limescale Deposits

The effects of hard water in and around the home are all too obvious to the consumer. There are ample cases of blocked showerheads and the build up of limescale in kettles, on kitchen and bathroom taps, toilets and other appliances. Sometimes the effects of limescale deposits go unnoticed, however, household washing machines, dishwashers and central heating systems are prime examples of the invisible menace of limescale and how being left untreated can prove costly for the occupier.

A prime example of where the unnoticed build up of limescale deposits can have detrimental effects is on central heating systems. Some effects are, such as noisy boilers or sticking valves are not only annoying, but they can also cause a lot of inconvenience for occupants in that affected systems may not deliver the required performance. If limescale goes unchecked in this instance then boilers, pumps and valves can collect limescale deposits, causing not just noise, jammed parts and poor performance, but also higher fuel bills, due to boilers and central heating systems having to work harder to function correctly.

Specialist central heating system treatments have been devised by in order to reduce the impact that the build up of limescale deposits can have on central heating systems. These solutions attempt to reduce limescale build up by eliminating sludge and debris and therefore helping occupants avoid unnecessary bills and reduce the stress caused by these high bills.

One of the more popular methods of tackling this problem is to have your central system heating cleaned with a special cleaning solution using a power flush unit. The unit will disperse a specially formulated treatment solution that tackles limescale build up along with additional debris and sludge, through your heating system, which will clean, and flush the system, eliminating any signs of limescale build up and additional debris or sludge.

Once this stage of treatment has been performed, the engineer can then carry out additional measures to ensure that the build up of limescale deposits does not occur again. The addition of a specially designed inhibitor formulation will protect steel, copper and aluminum system components and keep them protected, not just from deposition of scale but also from the long-term effects of metal corrosion. In this way, a clean central heating system will continue to perform at its maximum effectiveness, remaining reliable and keeping energy usage costs down, saving money at the same time.

How to Power Flush Central Heating

Power flushing works by removing the build up of sludge, limescale and corrosive deposits that accumulate in a central heating system naturally over time, these build up due to the constant flow of water through the system, causing rusting.

A power flushing machine is connected to the central heating at a convenient point for you (usually at the tails of a radiator), which pumps water through the system at high velocity, dislodging the build up of unwanted materials. To prevent damage to the system, the water is pumped through at low pressure. Cleaning chemicals are added to the water to improve effectiveness; how these work, is by eating away at the unwanted materials, which then flow out to a filter attached to the power flushing machine. Once the all of the unwanted materials have been cleared out, clean water, with no cleaning chemicals, is pumped through, until only clean pH neutral water is left in the system.

How long it takes to flush the system out will depend on the size and condition of the system, but it is usually between 4 and 8 hours.

Bleeding a radiator as the easiest way to check if the central heating needs to be flushed out. Dirty or cloudy water indicates the build up of unwanted materials and a power flush is recommended.

If you are experiencing any problems such as strange boiler noises, the boiler or radiators becoming slow to warm up, radiator cold spots or fluctuating hot water temperature, there is likely to be a build up of unwanted materials in the system. Also, if your central heating is 10 or more years old and has not been flushed out before, a lot of unwanted materials will have built up over this time, so a power flush is recommended.

If a new boiler is being fitted to an existing central heating system, a power flush of the existing system first is essential. This is because of how new boilers are designed to improve efficiency; new boilers have much narrower passageways then older models, this means they are more susceptible to the problems caused by the build up of unwanted materials. A new boilers warranty may be invalid if the existing system was not flushed out prior to its installation.

A power flush can save you money is by preventing problems with a central heating system, reducing the likelihood of a breakdown, which could cost a lot to repair. The system will be running to its top level of efficiency having been flushed out, reducing both carbon emissions and your energy bills.

Only a Gas Safe registered heating engineer should power flush gas central heating systems. How you can be sure is to ask to see an engineer's Gas Safe registration card before they begin.